How Do You Change the String and Cables on a Ravin Crossbow?

Why You Need a Dedicated Ravin Bow Press

Ravin crossbows do not work like standard compound bows. Their limbs bend into an extreme curve to pack massive power into a tiny frame. The wheel-to-wheel length (the distance between both axle wheels) narrows down to just a few inches when cocked. This unique shape stores hundreds of pounds of energy. Because of that design, you cannot use a regular shop vice or a standard archery press to change the harness.

A standard bow press uses flat fingers that push straight against ordinary limb tips. On a Ravin, those flat fingers slip right off the angled limbs. If a press slips while holding back hundreds of pounds of pull weight (how much muscular effort it takes to pull the bowstring back), the limbs snap violently. That kind of slip shatters fiberglass, bends axles, and can send sharp fragments flying across your workspace.

You must use a dedicated Ravin bow press. This specialized clamp tool squeezes bow limbs by locking onto specific mounting brackets built right into the bow riser. It cradles the limb tips at the exact angle set by the manufacturer. Modern narrow-profile designs, much like a TenPoint crossbow for hunting, demand strict respect for high-tension parts. If you do not own the official Ravin press tool, do not try to make your own clamp setup. The only safe choice is to take your bow to an authorized archery dealer.

Pre-Work Checks Before You Start

Before you clamp your crossbow into a press, take time to inspect the entire setup. Catching damage early keeps you safe and prevents you from putting brand-new strings on a broken bow. Go through these basic checks at your workbench:

• Check the limbs for cracks or hairline splinters: Run a dry cotton ball or a clean micro-fiber cloth along the top, bottom, and edges of each limb. Cotton fibers will catch on tiny splinters that your eyes might miss. If you find a crack or loose fiber, stop right away and replace the limbs before touching the string.
• Inspect the cams and bearings for smooth motion: Cams are the rotating wheels at the limb tips that control the cable wrap. Spin each cam lightly with your fingers to feel for gritty spots or loose side-to-side play. If an axle wobbles or rubs against a limb pocket, the bearing needs factory service.
• Confirm the string and cable set matches your exact model: Ravin produces several bow designs with different limb lengths and power levels. A set made for an R10 or R9 will not fit an R26 or R29 correctly. Check the packaging label to make sure the part numbers match your bow manual.
• Inspect the factory serving: Serving is the tough protective thread wrapped tightly around string wear spots. Look over the center area and end loops of your new replacement set. Make sure no wraps are loose, separated, or unraveling before you install them.
• Take clear photos of the cable tracks: Snap close-up pictures of both cams from the top and bottom with your phone. Capture the exact way the cables cross each other in the center guide. Having these photos gives you a quick reference if you forget which strand runs on top.

Step-by-Step Ravin String and Cable Replacement

Follow these steps in order. Work slowly, keep your workspace free of clutter, and never rush the press mechanism.

1. Mount the crossbow securely into the dedicated Ravin press.

   Align the press pins with the specific mounting channels on the bow riser and limb brackets. Reason: Locking the frame in place keeps the bow from sliding or twisting while you apply heavy pressure.

2. Note your starting cam timing dots.

   Look at the small factory timing holes or etched dots on the cam spools and see where they line up against the limbs. Reason: Knowing where the wheels sit at rest gives you a target alignment to match once the new set is on.

3. Turn the press crank handle slowly to compress the limbs.

   Rotate the crank smoothly and watch both limb tips move inward at the same steady rate. Reason: Compressing the limbs takes the heavy pull weight off the string loops safely without straining the riser.

4. Stop cranking the moment the main string goes slack.

   Check the center string with your fingers; stop turning as soon as you can easily wiggle the loops. Reason: Over-compressing the limbs stresses the internal fiberglass layers and can crack the limb tips.

5. Unhook the main bowstring from the outer cam posts.

   Slide the string loops off the small anchor posts on the outer rim of each cam and lift the string off the bow. Reason: Removing the main string first clears your working path so you can reach the cable tracks underneath.

6. Replace only the left side cable assembly first.

   Take off the old left cable and leave the right cable in place while you work. Reason: Keeping one side completely hooked up gives you a live visual guide for the exact cable routing path.

7. Thread the new cable through the center guide track.

   Guide the new strands through the center slot in the riser, following the original crossover path. Reason: Proper routing prevents the moving cables from rubbing against the bow frame or sawing across each other.

8. Seat the cable loops firmly onto the cam spool pegs.

   Slip the end loops over the dedicated posts on the upper and lower spools of the cam. Reason: Placing the loops all the way down against the spool base prevents them from popping off under initial tension.

9. Replace the right side cable assembly.

   Unhook the old right cable, route the new cable through the track, and anchor its loops on the right spool pegs. Reason: Replacing the cables one at a time keeps your work organized and ensures both sides match factory routing.

10. Install the new main bowstring across the cams.

    Place the string loops over the outer cam pegs and guide the strands into the perimeter grooves of both wheels. Reason: The main string must rest directly inside the outer track so it feeds straight down the barrel rail.

11. Verify that every loop sits completely inside its track.

    Look closely at every post, spool groove, and guide slot on both sides of the bow. Reason: A misplaced loop will instantly jump the track when tension returns, which causes a dry fire (firing the bow without an arrow nocked) that can shatter parts.

12. Back off the press crank slowly to return tension to the limbs.

    Turn the crank counter-clockwise, pausing every two turns to make sure the strings stay centered in their grooves. Reason: Releasing pressure gradually lets the material settle smoothly into the cam tracks without pinching.

Setting Cam Timing and Checking Alignment

Once tension returns to the bow, you must check cam timing. Cam timing simply means keeping both wheels turning at the exact same speed. When both cams rotate together, the string pushes the arrow straight down the center of the rail. If one cam rolls faster than the other, your arrows will kick to the side and group poorly downrange.

Look at the small factory timing marks on each cam. These are small etched dots or small holes drilled into the metal spools. On a properly timed Ravin, these dots sit in the exact same position relative to the limb face on both the left and right sides. Compare both sides closely in good lighting:

• Both timing dots match the limb edges: Your cams are in sync. The string and cables are sitting correctly, and the bow is ready for shooting checks.
• One timing dot is visible while the other is hidden: The cams are out of time. The cam with the hidden dot is lagging behind the other wheel.
• How to correct a lagging cam: Place the bow back into the Ravin press. Crank the handle just enough to loosen the tension on the cables. Unhook the cable loop on the lagging side, give the loop one full twist in the direction of the factory braid, and slip it back onto the post. Release the press and check the dots again. Adding a twist shortens that cable slightly and rotates the cam into position.

Compact hunting setups demand balanced cams. Whether you are running this system or shooting a short-profile setup like a TenPoint TX Ultra 265 crossbow, proper wheel timing prevents uneven stress on the limbs. Always re-check these dots after your first twenty shots, because new strands settle into their tracks during early use.

When to Stop and Visit an Authorized Pro Shop

Working on high-energy bows requires knowing your personal limits. Crossbow limbs hold back massive kinetic force. If something looks wrong or feels stuck, forcing it can cause severe injuries. Stop your project and take the bow to an authorized technician if you encounter any of these problems:

Stop immediately if you notice damaged cam axles or bent spacers. If a cam sits at an angle instead of running flat and level, the axle is bent or the internal bearing has collapsed. No amount of cable twisting will fix a tilted cam. A pro shop has the bearing pullers and factory alignment tools needed to press out old pins and set new axles safely.

Step away if the bow press binds or feels loose on the riser. The Ravin press must hold the bow firmly without shifting. If the press threads strip or the brackets wobble under load, back out the pressure right away. Working with a compromised clamp tool is dangerous.

Seek professional help if the timing dots refuse to align after two or three twists. If you adjust the cables and one cam still stays out of sync, the limbs may have uneven stiffness (deflection differences). An authorized service center can measure limb strength and replace matched pairs to ensure the bow shoots safely.

FAQs

Can you change Ravin strings without a bow press?

No, you should never attempt to change Ravin strings or cables without a dedicated press. The limbs hold hundreds of pounds of pressure that must be compressed safely to free the string loops. Trying to use ratchets, shop vices, or pry bars will slip off the curved limbs, destroy the bow, and cause severe personal injury.

How often should Ravin string and cables be replaced?

Ravin recommends replacing strings and cables every two years or every 200 shots, whichever comes first. You should replace them sooner if you notice broken strands, fuzzy serving thread, or severe separation around the cam grooves. Regular visual checks before every hunt will tell you when the materials are wearing out.

What causes Ravin center serving to wear out quickly?

Center serving wears down primarily from lack of proper lubrication and regular friction against the flight track. High pull weight creates intense downward pressure as the string pushes the arrow. Applying factory-approved serving fluid every twenty to thirty shots keeps the threads cool, flexible, and protected against friction burns.

Do new Ravin crossbow strings stretch after installation?

Modern synthetic strings experience a brief settling period during the first few dozen shots. The loops seat deep into the cam posts, which can shift your cam timing dots slightly. Always re-inspect your timing marks and verify your grip-to-string distance after your first practice session to ensure everything stays aligned.