How to Adjust an HHA Bow Sight and Set the Yardage Tape

The Short Version

• Follow your arrow: Always move the aiming pin toward the spot where your arrow struck the target, which means moving the pin up if you hit high and moving it left if you hit left.
• Start at 20 yards: Attach the blank white setup tape to the sight dial, zero your pin at 20 yards using the adjustment knobs, and write down your starting number.
• Shoot at 40 or 60 yards: Turn the adjustment wheel until you hit the bullseye at long distance, record that second number, and subtract the 20-yard number to get your calibration formula.
• Apply the printed tape: Match your final number to the pre-printed yardage tape in the package, line up the 20-yard mark with your pointer needle, and stick it firmly in place.

The Golden Rule: Chase Your Arrow Group

Adjusting a single-pin bow sight can feel backward the first time you do it. Many archers make the mistake of moving the sight pin away from where their arrow lands, thinking they need to steer the bow back toward the bullseye. Doing that actually moves your shot farther off target. The basic rule for adjusting any bow sight is simple: chase your arrow with the pin.

Think about how your eye lines up with the sight. When you look through your peep sight (the small plastic ring tied into your bowstring) and focus on your sight pin, you create an aiming line. If your arrows are hitting 4 inches to the left of the bullseye, your bow is launching arrows to the left of where your eye is pointing. When you move the sight housing (the round ring holding the aiming pin) to the left, you force your hands and the entire bow to tilt back toward the right to get that pin centered in your peep again. That natural realignment brings your next arrow right into the center of the target.

The same logic applies to elevation (the up-and-down adjustment). If your arrows hit high, raise the sight pin. Raising the pin forces you to drop your bow arm slightly when aiming, which brings your arrow group down. If your arrows land low in the dirt, lower the sight pin. Lowering the pin forces you to lift your bow arm, which lofts the arrow higher. Remembering to chase your arrow will save you countless wasted shots and prevent bent or broken arrows during your setup session.

Step 1: Level the Housing and Lock Your 20-Yard Zero

Before you start sliding dials and shooting arrows, your sight needs to sit square on the bow riser (the center handle of the bow). If the sight sits crooked, your arrows will drift sideways whenever you raise or lower the pin for different distances. Getting this first step right ensures you learn proper technique for using a bow sight without fighting strange left-and-right misses later on.

1. Check the bubble level: Look at the bubble level (the small liquid vial showing bow tilt) mounted inside the bottom of your sight housing. Place your bow in a bow vise or set it upright on a flat table. Adjust the mounting screws until the bubble sits perfectly centered between the two black reference lines. When you draw the bow, that bubble must sit dead center while your bow sits completely vertical.
2. Apply the white setup tape: Open your sight package and locate the blank white setup tape. This tape has small black tick marks and reference numbers running along its length. Peel off the backing and stick this white tape smoothly onto the curved wheel dial or the straight slider bar of your sight. Ensure the numbers read clearly and that the pointer needle glides freely across the marks without dragging against the sticker edge.
3. Set your dial for maximum travel: If your sight uses a rotating wheel, loosen the dial lock screw and rotate the wheel until the sight housing sits near the top of its physical track. This position gives the housing plenty of downward travel so you can shoot out to 60, 70, or 80 yards later without running into the bottom stop. Tighten the lock screw lightly with your fingers.
4. Shoot your first group at 20 yards: Step up to the 20-yard firing line. Using a fresh target face, draw your bow smoothly, center the pin on the bullseye, check that your bubble level is centered, and release an arrow. Shoot a group of three arrows using the exact same anchor point on your jaw each time to see where your shots cluster.
5. Adjust windage for left and right errors: If your group lands to the left or right, adjust your windage (the left-and-right adjustment screw). Loosen the windage lock screw slightly. Turn the micro-adjust knob to move the housing toward the arrows. If you hit left, shift the housing left. If you hit right, shift the housing right. Lock the screw down and shoot another three arrows to verify that your group splits the vertical center line.
6. Adjust elevation for high and low errors: Once your left-and-right alignment is true, look at your height. Loosen the main elevation lock knob. If your arrows land low, turn the wheel or slide the bar to drop the pin lower. If your arrows land high, raise the pin. When your three-arrow group punches directly through the center of the bullseye at 20 yards, you have found your baseline zero.
7. Mark your starting number: Look closely at the pointer needle resting over your white setup tape. Note the exact number or tick mark where the needle points. Write down this number on a piece of paper or mark it with a sharp pencil right on the white tape. For example, your needle might land directly on mark 14. Keep the dial locked down so it does not shift while you pack up to change distances.

Step 2: Shoot at 40 or 60 Yards to Find Your Calibration Number

With your 20-yard zero locked down, you now need to shoot at a longer distance to measure your arrow trajectory. Every bow shoots at a different speed based on your draw weight, draw length, and total arrow weight. A fast setup will shoot flat, meaning the marks on the sight tape will sit close together. A slower setup will cause the arrow to drop more, requiring wider spacing between the yardage numbers. Shooting at a known long distance gives you the mathematical spacing required to select the exact pre-printed sight tape (the factory-printed distance sticker) for your bow.

You can calibrate your sight using either 40 yards or 60 yards. If you have access to a safe outdoor range and shoot tight groups at longer distances, 60 yards provides the most accurate reading. If you are shooting in a backyard with limited room, or if your groups spread out past 40 yards, use the 40-yard method instead. Both methods use the same simple steps.

1. Back up to your chosen distance: Move back to exactly 40 yards or 60 yards. Measure the distance with a reliable archery rangefinder rather than pacing it out by foot. A discrepancy of just two yards will throw off your entire tape calculation.
2. Adjust the sight dial downward: Loosen your elevation lock knob. Turn the wheel or move the slider down so the sight housing drops lower on the track. If you are shooting at 40 yards, move the dial roughly 10 to 15 marks past your 20-yard mark to start. If you are stepping back to 60 yards, move it roughly 25 to 35 marks past your 20-yard mark. Never guess by a huge margin on your first shot, or you risk sailing an arrow over the target bale.
3. Take a cautious test shot: Aim at the top edge of a large target bag or foam block. Keep your bow vertical and confirm that the bubble level rests dead center. Release a single arrow. Watch where it hits. If the arrow lands low in the dirt, walk up, recover the arrow, loosen the dial, and drop the housing a few marks lower. If the arrow lands high, raise the housing.
4. Group your arrows in the bullseye: Continue making small vertical adjustments on the dial until your arrows hit the exact center of the target at your chosen distance. Shoot at least four or five arrows across a couple of rounds to confirm that your form is steady and your group is centered. Avoid touching the windage screws during this step; only turn the elevation wheel.
5. Record your long-distance number: Look at where the needle points on the white setup tape. Write this second number down next to your 20-yard number. For instance, if your 20-yard mark was 14, your 60-yard mark might land on 58.
6. Do the simple subtraction: Subtract your 20-yard number from your long-distance number. Using our example at 60 yards: 58 minus 14 equals 44. That final number (44) is your official calibration number. If you shot at 40 yards, you would use the 40-yard conversion chart provided in your sight paperwork to find the matching tape number.

Step 3: Pick and Install Your Pre-Printed Yardage Tape

Now that you have your calibration number, you can replace the blank white setup tape with a permanent, weatherproof yardage tape. The manufacturer provides a booklet containing dozens of color-coded and numbered strips. Each strip features clear distance numbers starting at 20 yards and running out to 80, 90, or even 100 yards, spaced perfectly for specific arrow velocities.

• Find your matching tape: Locate the sheet of printed tapes that came with your sight. Look at the top or bottom edge of each strip to find the small printed reference number. Find the strip that matches your calibration number from Step 2. If your math resulted in 44, pull out tape strip number 44.
• Confirm the distance format: Double-check that you picked the strip designed for your shooting style. Most sight kits provide tapes marked in standard one-yard or five-yard intervals. Make sure you did not accidentally grab a crossbow tape or a metric meter tape if you shoot imperial yards.
• Return your dial to 20 yards: Loosen your elevation lock knob and rotate the wheel back up until the needle rests directly on your original 20-yard mark on the white setup tape. Lock the knob down tightly so the wheel cannot move while you handle the sight.
• Remove the white setup tape: Carefully peel the temporary white tape off the wheel or slider. If any adhesive stays behind on the metal, wipe the surface clean with a dry cloth or rubbing alcohol and let it dry completely.
• Line up the 20-yard mark: Peel your permanent yardage tape from the backing sheet. Hold it carefully by the edges. Position the tape on the wheel so the 20-yard line sits directly beneath the tip of the pointer needle.
• Smooth it down: Press the tape against the metal wheel, starting directly under the needle and working outward toward both ends. Press out any air bubbles with your thumb to create a flat, moisture-resistant seal.
• Verify your marks: Loosen the dial lock and turn the wheel to your 40-yard or 60-yard mark. The needle should land precisely on that printed yardage line. Step back out to the range and shoot one arrow at 20, 30, and 50 yards to confirm that every yardage mark drives arrows into the center of the target.

If you switch to a heavier arrow, change your broadheads, or adjust your bow draw weight down the road, your arrow drop will change. When that happens, simply stick a fresh setup tape over the wheel and run through this two-distance calibration process again.

Troubleshooting: Fixing Common Elevation and Windage Issues

Even when following every step carefully, you may run into physical limits or alignment quirks. Modern bows produce incredible arrow speeds, but different peep heights and draw lengths can occasionally push a sight outside its standard range of movement. Here is how to fix the most common setup headaches.

Running Out of Downward Dial Travel

A common issue when shooting long distances is that the dial hits its mechanical stop before the housing drops low enough to hit 60 or 70 yards. This problem usually happens on bows with a low draw weight or heavy hunting arrows. The arrow drops steeply, requiring the sight housing to sit very low, but the adjustment slider runs out of room on its track.

To fix this, look at the mounting bracket that connects the round scope housing to the sight arm. Most single-pin sights feature multiple sets of vertical bolt holes on the housing bracket. Unscrew the two mounting bolts holding the round scope ring, move the entire scope housing down to a lower set of mounting holes, and re-tighten the hardware securely. Moving the housing physically lower gives you extra downward travel on the wheel, allowing you to reach longer distances without moving your peep sight.

Arrows Drifting Sideways at Long Range

If your arrows hit dead center at 20 yards but start drifting noticeably to the left or right at 50 or 60 yards, your windage is not necessarily the problem. This drift is almost always caused by an unlevel sight housing, commonly known in archery as second-axis tilt. If your sight bar is mounted slightly crooked against the bow riser, tilting the bow forward or backward will swing the sight pin in a slight diagonal arc rather than a pure vertical line.

To correct sideways drift at distance, place your bow in a level shooting stand. Use a small bubble tool to make sure your bowstring is completely vertical. Then check the bubble level located inside the sight housing. If the bowstring is level but the sight bubble is off center, loosen the axis adjustment screws on the sight housing and rotate the housing slightly until both bubbles match. When the housing bubble is true to the bowstring, your sight pin will travel straight up and down, keeping your long-range shots tracking down the center line. This stability is especially helpful when preparing bow sights suited for treestand hunting, where steep shot angles amplify any leveling flaws.

Dial Loosening Under Bow Vibration

Compound bows produce sharp hand vibration and noise on the release of every shot. Over time, that vibration can back out small adjustment screws or cause the elevation dial to creep out of position between shots. If you notice your needle drifting off your yardage marks while walking through the woods or shooting practice rounds, inspect the tension system on your dial.

Most single-pin models feature a thumb-operated dial lock and an internal nylon friction washer. Tighten the dial lock knob firmly after selecting your yardage. If the wheel still feels too loose when unlocked, look for a small brass or steel set screw located near the hub of the wheel. Tightening that screw by a quarter turn adds mechanical drag to the wheel, keeping it from spinning accidentally when you brush against branches or drop your bow into a hunting sling. For mounting bolts attached to the bow riser, applying a single drop of blue thread-locking compound to the threads will prevent the entire sight from vibrating loose over time.

Helpful Tools for Tuning and Maintaining Your Sight

Dialing in a single-pin sight does not require a workshop full of expensive machines, but a few simple tuning accessories make the job significantly faster and more precise. Having the right tools on hand prevents stripped screw heads, crooked installations, and uneven tape placement.

A dedicated archery bubble level set is the most valuable tool you can keep in your gear bag. These kits typically come with two matched levels: one that clips directly onto your bowstring and another that rests on your arrow shaft or clamps to your sight bar. Using matched levels lets you square the bow in a vise and confirm that your sight housing sits perfectly upright before you ever shoot an arrow. This step completely eliminates second-axis canting errors before you head to the range, which is critical when setting up a sight on a Mathews bow or any high-performance hunting rig.

It is also wise to keep spare sheets of blank setup tape, extra yardage scales, and a set of quality imperial hex wrenches in your archery tackle box. Standard yardage tapes can wear down or peel along the edges after seasons of hard rain, brush, and travel. Carrying fresh replacement tapes ensures you can quickly re-zero your bow if you switch arrow spines, replace your bowstring, or travel to a late-season hunt without losing your confidence downrange.

1

FENJANER Archery Bow Sight Scope Bracket for red dot Laser

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• ARS Mark

  ARS Mark is a ranking system developed by bestairriflescopes.com. ARS Mark has no relationship or impact from any manufacturers or sales agent websites. Learn more

  9.0
• Brand
  FENJANER

Key specs2

Mounting Interface

Attaches red dot optics and laser sights directly to bow risers on both compound and recurve hunting setups.

Distance Adjustment

Fixed bracket design lacks integrated yardage tapes or slider scales, requiring manual holdover for varied ranges.

Pros & cons32

Pros

• Mounts red dot optics or laser sights directly to compound and recurve bow risers
• Provides a dedicated rail interface for archery hunting and target shooting
• Lightweight bracket design secures to standard bow sight riser mounting holes

Cons

• Lacks elevation slider scales or distance markings for multi-yardage arrow drop
• Mounting hardware thread specs and rail dimensions are not stated by manufacturer

2

TACFUN Front Sight Adjust Windage & Elevation Adjustment Tool

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• ARS Mark

  ARS Mark is a ranking system developed by bestairriflescopes.com. ARS Mark has no relationship or impact from any manufacturers or sales agent websites. Learn more

  8.4
• Brand
  TACFUN

Key specs2

Adjustment Function

Provides dual windage and elevation adjustment capability for compatible front sight posts.

Tool Compatibility

Intended for post sights, so verify pin slot dimensions before attempting use on bow sight hardware.

Pros & cons32

Pros

• Adjusts elevation and windage on compatible front sight assemblies
• Compact handheld tool design fits easily into archery range bags or field packs
• Direct-engagement tool helps prevent marring sight posts during adjustments

Cons

• Built for firearm front posts rather than HHA dial wheels or slider housings
• Manufacturer does not provide pin slot dimensions or thread sizing details

3

SOPOGER Archery Multifunctional Bow Level Tuning and Mounting String 3D

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• ARS Mark

  ARS Mark is a ranking system developed by bestairriflescopes.com. ARS Mark has no relationship or impact from any manufacturers or sales agent websites. Learn more

  8.0
• Brand
  SOPOGER

Key specs2

Alignment Functions

• Checks sight head bubble level balance against the bowstring
• Levels arrow rest installation bracket and arrow shaft
• Assists in setting horizontal D-loop position on compound strings

Body Construction

Impact-resistant 3D printed plastic

Pros & cons42

Pros

• Features high-sensitivity bubble levels to verify horizontal and vertical alignment
• Clamps securely to bowstrings with a dedicated screw that resists slipping
• Assists in checking sight head level, arrow rest position, and D-loop height
• Weighs only 0.09 pounds in impact-resistant plastic for easy bench handling

Cons

• 3D-printed plastic clamp body can strip if mounting screws are over-tightened
• Does not include dedicated third-axis leveling brackets for angled sight planes

4

SOPOGER Archery Multifunctional Bow Level Tuning and Mounting String 3D

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• ARS Mark

  ARS Mark is a ranking system developed by bestairriflescopes.com. ARS Mark has no relationship or impact from any manufacturers or sales agent websites. Learn more

  8.0
• Brand
  SOPOGER

Key specs2

Leveling Capability

Pairs a main string-mounted level with a secondary shaft level to coordinate sight and rest alignment.

Unit Weight

0.07 pounds

Pros & cons32

Pros

• Dual bubble level combo aligns bowstrings with arrow rests and sight housings
• String clamp slot screw attaches firmly across diverse bowstring diameters
• Lightweight 0.07-pound build allows easy tuning without flexing the bowstring

Cons

• 3D-printed plastic structure requires gentle tightening to avoid cracking
• Lacks micro-adjust knobs for fine rotational third-axis sight leveling

5

HHA - Optimizer Speed Dial Crossbow - Sight Tapes

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• ARS Mark

  ARS Mark is a ranking system developed by bestairriflescopes.com. ARS Mark has no relationship or impact from any manufacturers or sales agent websites. Learn more

  7.8
• Brand
  HHA

Key specs2

Model Compatibility

Engineered specifically for HHA Optimizer Lite Crossbow Speed Dial elevation mechanisms.

Included Scale Type

Provides pre-printed distance tapes calibrated to align with arrow drop across various speeds.

Pros & cons32

Pros

• Genuine factory replacement tapes calibrated for HHA Optimizer Lite Crossbow units
• Pre-printed distance marks match specific arrow speeds to eliminate holdover guesswork
• Backed by manufacturer warranty coverage for verified product support

Cons

• Sized for crossbow Speed Dial units rather than vertical bow slider housings
• Requires shooting initial calibration marks before selecting the final tape

6

ZSHJGJR Archery 1 Pin Bow Sight Single Pin Bow Sighting

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• ARS Mark

  ARS Mark is a ranking system developed by bestairriflescopes.com. ARS Mark has no relationship or impact from any manufacturers or sales agent websites. Learn more

  7.8
• Brand
  ZSHJGJR

Key specs2

Sight Construction

Stainless steel frame with metal aiming needle

Adjustment Method

Manual elevation and position tuning secured via included hex wrench hardware.

Pros & cons42

Pros

• Sturdy stainless steel build offers dependable durability on hunting bows
• Adjustable single-pin design allows customized height and horizontal positioning
• Compact 7.8 by 6.2 centimeter profile fits recurve and straight hunting bows
• Bundled adjustment wrench simplifies pin repositioning during setup

Cons

• Lacks micro-click adjustment dials and pre-printed distance calibration tapes
• Does not feature an integrated bubble level to help detect bow torque or cant

7

AYLIFU Recurve Bow Sight Archery Single Needle Bow Sight All-Metal

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• ARS Mark

  ARS Mark is a ranking system developed by bestairriflescopes.com. ARS Mark has no relationship or impact from any manufacturers or sales agent websites. Learn more

  7.6
• Brand
  AYLIFU

Key specs2

Housing Material

All-metal construction

Pin Style

Features a single metal aiming needle suitable for clean, open sight pictures on recurve or compound bows.

Pros & cons32

Pros

• All-metal construction provides rigid aiming support on recurve and compound bows
• Single needle design keeps the sight window uncluttered for clear target view
• Simple mechanical setup offers straightforward mounting without complex dials

Cons

• Listing provides no details on exact bracket dimensions, weight, or thread specs
• Lacks rapid slider yardage adjustments and an integrated leveling bubble vial

8

Ace Hunter New Recurve Bow Sight 1Pin Archery Simple Single

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• ARS Mark

  ARS Mark is a ranking system developed by bestairriflescopes.com. ARS Mark has no relationship or impact from any manufacturers or sales agent websites. Learn more

  7.6
• Brand
  Ace Hunter

Key specs2

Mounting Style

Features a universal T-shape bracket with thumb screws for rapid mounting on recurve bows.

Frame Material

Machined aluminum

Pros & cons42

Pros

• Machined aluminum construction delivers durability at a light 0.13-pound weight
• T-shape mounting bracket with thumb screws enables fast, tool-free installation
• Calibrated elevation scale assists in visual tracking of sight pin height
• Quick-detachable piece simplifies breakdown on takedown recurve bows

Cons

• Geared toward takedown recurve bows rather than compound slider bow sights
• Thumb screws lack fine micro-click detents for match-grade windage tuning

9

Aolamegs Extended Range Archery Sight Tape, Sight from 20 to

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• ARS Mark

  ARS Mark is a ranking system developed by bestairriflescopes.com. ARS Mark has no relationship or impact from any manufacturers or sales agent websites. Learn more

  7.4
• Brand
  Aolamegs

Key specs2

Yardage Range

20 to 120 yards

Scale Selection

Includes calibration tapes that translate initial zero marks into precise extended yardage increments.

Pros & cons32

Pros

• Covers extended archery shooting ranges from 20 yards out to 120 yards
• Includes calibration scale tapes to match specific arrow velocities and drop
• Offers fine distance increments for both short-range zeroing and long-range practice

Cons

• Manufacturer does not list specific tape width or sight wheel compatibility
• Accurate tape selection requires shooting verification at extended distances

10

SOPOGER Archery 3rd Axis Bow Sight Level Adjustment Tuning Leveler

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• ARS Mark

  ARS Mark is a ranking system developed by bestairriflescopes.com. ARS Mark has no relationship or impact from any manufacturers or sales agent websites. Learn more

  7.2
• Brand
  SOPOGER

Key specs2

Axis Calibration

Engineered to calibrate third-axis sight housing alignment for accurate uphill and downhill shooting.

Bow Compatibility

Mounts to sight rails on both compound and recurve bow setups for multi-axis leveling.

Pros & cons32

Pros

• Dedicated 3rd-axis tuning leveler ensures sight pin alignment on angled shots
• Works with compound and recurve sight brackets to calibrate multi-axis levels
• High-precision bubble levels help eliminate left and right misses from bow cant

Cons

• Clamp placement must be verified on each sight bar profile to ensure level seating
• Chassis material and specific clamp opening dimensions are omitted from listing

Last update on 2026-09-30 / Affiliate links / Images, Product Titles, and Product Highlights from Amazon Product Advertising API

Frequently Asked Questions

Which direction do I move the pin if my arrow hits high or to the left?

Always move the sight pin toward your arrow group. If your arrow strikes high, raise the sight pin or turn the dial to lift the housing. If your arrow strikes to the left of the bullseye, loosen your windage screws and slide the housing to the left. Moving the pin toward the error naturally forces you to reposition your bow arm back toward the center of the target.

Should I shoot at 40 yards or 60 yards to find my yardage tape?

Shooting at 60 yards gives you the most precise calibration number because arrow drop is much greater at extended ranges, making any trajectory differences easy to measure on the scale. However, you should only calibrate at 60 yards if you can consistently shoot tight groups at that distance. If your long-distance shooting form is inconsistent or your range is short, calibrate at 40 yards using the 40-yard chart to avoid errant shots.

What should I do if I run out of vertical room on my sight dial?

If your adjustment wheel reaches the bottom of its track and you still need the pin to drop lower for long distances, adjust the physical scope mounting bracket. Remove the two screws holding the round sight housing to the elevation arm and reinstall the housing in a lower set of bolt holes on the bracket. This mechanically lowers the pin, freeing up extra dial travel for extended yardages.

Why do my arrows drift to the side when I shoot past 40 yards?

Sideways drift that only appears at longer distances is usually caused by an unlevel sight housing rather than incorrect windage. If the sight's internal bubble level is not aligned with your bowstring, the sight pin will travel on a slight diagonal angle as you move the dial downward. Level your sight housing to the bowstring using a proper leveling tool to keep your vertical adjustments tracking straight down.