How to Safely Release the String on a Ravin Crossbow
Most hunters assume that letting down a crossbow string requires shooting an arrow into a target or the dirt. In reality, you can back-wind the string safely with the crank handle while holding down the spool release button. This brings the string forward under complete control, meaning an arrow never has to leave the rail to uncock the bow.
The right method depends on whether the bow is currently under full draw tension or already resting forward. Letting down a cocked bow requires continuous handle control, while freeing a trigger carriage (the sliding catch that grabs the string) that locked shut at rest takes a small release tool. Before touching anything, always verify that the arrow is removed from the flight track. Here is how to release the string safely for both situations.
Your Bow Is Either Under Tension Or Clamped At Rest
When you need to release the string on your crossbow, you are almost always dealing with one of two completely different situations. Knowing which situation you are facing is critical for your safety and prevents permanent damage to your equipment. The physical steps you take depend entirely on whether the limbs are currently bent under pressure or sitting relaxed on the frame.
The first situation happens at the end of a hunt or target session. Your bow is cocked, meaning the limbs are pulled back under hundreds of pounds of pressure, but you did not take a shot. You cannot put a cocked crossbow into a vehicle or storage case safely. In archery terms, letting this stored energy down without firing a shot is called decocking. Here, you are controlling massive mechanical force until the string returns to its resting position.
The second situation happens when the bow is already uncocked, but the carriage is clamped shut. The carriage is the sliding claw box that travels along the rail to grab the string. Sometimes those metal claws snap closed on an empty rail, or they clamp onto the string at rest and refuse to open. In this case, the limbs have no draw tension, but the internal catch (the sear) is locked in place.
You must never mix up these two problems. Never try to pry open or unlock the sliding claw box while the bow limbs are pulled back under draw tension. Doing so will cause an immediate, violent string release that can shatter the bow and cause catastrophic hand injuries. Always look at the limbs first. If they are flexed backward, you must use the crank handle to let the pressure down gradually.
Before you touch any switch, button, or crank, inspect the flight track for an arrow. If an arrow is loaded, remove it immediately. Keep your fingers well beneath the top edge of the flight track while sliding the arrow forward out of the bow. Place the arrow securely in your quiver before taking any other action.
Back Off The Draw Tension Slowly With The Crank Handle
Older traditional crossbows forced hunters to carry a heavy target block in their truck or shoot an arrow directly into the dirt just to unload the bow. That practice ruins broadheads, dulls blades, and risks losing arrows in rocky soil. Modern designs eliminate this hassle by letting you unwind the limbs mechanically. Hunters who compare these mechanisms to a crossbow built for safe decocking know that being able to back off the tension quietly is one of the best conveniences in the woods.
Unwinding the string on your bow requires a steady hand, full concentration, and the factory cocking handle. Follow these clear steps to decock your bow under tension safely:
- Confirm the arrow is removed: Look straight down the flight rail. Ensure no arrow, field point, or broadhead is anywhere near the string or carriage.
- Check the safety position: When the bow was drawn, the trigger mechanism automatically pushed the safety switch into the Safe position. Verify that the switch shows Safe. Keep your fingers completely away from the trigger during this entire process.
- Insert the cocking handle: Slide the crank handle into the cocking port on the side of the stock. Push it straight in until the spring-loaded detent ball clicks firmly into the socket. Give the handle a light tug to verify it is fully seated and will not slip out under pressure.
- Establish a firm grip: Grasp the crank handle firmly with your dominant hand. Crossbow limbs hold an immense amount of pull weight, which is the muscular effort needed to pull the string back. You must treat that handle like a loaded spring. Never hold it with just your fingertips.
- Relieve latch pressure and press the spool release: Rotate the crank handle forward about a quarter turn to take the holding pressure off the internal catch. While holding that forward tension, reach over with your other hand and press the spool release button on the back of the stock. Hold that button down firmly.
- Back-wind the handle in a steady circle: Keep the spool release button depressed and begin turning the crank handle backward in a slow, controlled motion. You will immediately feel the resistance of the limbs trying to speed up the handle. Keep your wrist rigid and match the pace of the unwinding strap.
- Guide the carriage to the front stop: Continue back-winding until the sliding claw box travels all the way down the rail and rests flush against the front riser stop. At this point, the limbs will be straight and relaxed.
- Release the button and remove the handle: Take your thumb off the spool release button. Give the crank handle one final partial turn backward to remove any leftover slack from the strap, then pull the handle out of the socket and store it.
If your hand ever slips while unwinding, the internal brake clutch is designed to catch the strap and prevent free-spinning. However, you should never intentionally rely on the safety clutch to stop a spinning crank. A flying metal handle can strike your knuckles or wrists with enough power to break bones. Keep two hands on the task until the string is completely forward.
Trip A Stuck Trigger Claw Open With A Release Tool
If your bow is fully uncocked at rest, you might encounter a completely different headache: the trigger claws will not open. You try to push the sliding claw box back onto the string to cock it, but the claws are already snapped shut. Alternatively, the claws might be clamped around the string at rest, but the safety switch is frozen and the trigger will not move.
This happens because the trigger housing contains an anti-dry fire mechanism. This safety feature locks the internal sear, which is the internal catch that holds the claws shut, whenever there is no arrow loaded. The bow thinks you are trying to shoot an empty string, so it refuses to let the trigger trip. Because the trigger is blocked, the claws stay locked shut, leaving you stuck.
You do not need to pull the trigger or force the safety switch to fix this. Instead, you need a specialized carriage release tool. This is a small, precision-shaped metal key designed to fit into a tiny port on the side of the sliding claw box. When inserted, it bypasses the safety interlock and trips the sear directly.
Here is how to open a stuck carriage safely using the release tool:
- Verify the bow is completely uncocked: Double-check that the limbs are completely relaxed and the carriage is sitting all the way at the front of the bow. Never insert any tool into the carriage if the limbs are under tension.
- Make sure no arrow is present: Keep the rail completely clear.
- Locate the release hole: Look closely at the side of the sliding claw box. You will see a small, round access hole near the rear of the carriage housing.
- Insert the carriage release tool: Slide the thin pin of the release tool straight into the access hole. Push it inward until you feel it make solid contact with the internal release lever.
- Apply firm, steady pressure: Push the tool inward or lever it gently according to the specific direction of the internal pin. Do not hammer or force the tool.
- Listen for the reset click: You will hear and feel a crisp metallic click. At that exact moment, the spring-loaded claws will pop open, ready to engage the bowstring properly.
- Remove the tool: Pull the release key straight out of the hole and inspect the claws to ensure both sides are fully spread.
Never try to bypass this process with everyday workshop tools. Shoving a flathead screwdriver, pocket knife blade, or steel nail into the carriage will damage the internal components. Screwdrivers can burr the hardened steel sear, gouge the soft aluminum track, or pinch and fray the string serving. Once a sear is scratched or warped, the trigger will no longer break cleanly and could fail unpredictably.
Simple Cocking Mistakes Can Damage Springs And Shatter Limbs
Crossbow mechanisms are rugged, but they depend on precise spring tension and close tolerances. Minor handling mistakes during decocking can ruin expensive components or create dangerous safety hazards. Review this checklist to make sure you avoid the most common user errors:
- Never pull the trigger to release tension: Some beginners assume that pulling the trigger while holding the crank handle is how you let the string down. This is extremely dangerous. Pulling the trigger drops the sear instantly. If you lose your grip for a fraction of a second, you will cause a dry fire. A dry fire means firing the bow without an arrow loaded to absorb the energy. That violent shock shatters limbs, bends cam axles, and throws sharp carbon splinters into the air.
- Never depress the spool button without holding the handle: If you push the spool release button before your hand is securely locked onto the crank handle, the full draw weight of the limbs will slam into the crank mechanism instantly. This can shear the drive pins or spin the handle out of control.
- Never leave slack in the cocking straps: As you let the string forward, keep a smooth rhythm so the heavy-duty cocking straps wind down neatly onto the internal spool. If the strap bundles unevenly or develops loose loops inside the housing, it can fold over itself and jam the crank drive.
- Never force a frozen safety switch: If the safety switch will not slide into the Fire position, do not grab pliers or force it forward with your thumb. The safety is locked because the internal anti-dry fire catch has not detected an arrow. Forcing the lever will bend the internal linkage and require a full trigger rebuild.
- Never store your bow cocked: Leaving your bow drawn overnight or during a long drive home places continuous strain on the fiberglass limbs and stretches the synthetic cables. Always decock your bow as soon as your shooting session or hunt concludes.
Stop Immediately If The Straps Bind Or Parts Jam
There is a major difference between a minor string hang-up and a severe mechanical failure. Modern high-energy crossbows operate under extreme internal pressure. Knowing when to stop trying to fix the problem yourself is essential for protecting your eyes, hands, and equipment.
Stop what you are doing immediately if you notice any of these warning signs:
- The cocking straps look frayed, twisted, cut, or pinched inside the spool housing. A damaged strap can snap without warning while under load.
- The crank handle spins freely in both directions without moving the carriage down the flight rail. This indicates a stripped internal gear, broken drive pin, or failed internal brake.
- The sliding claw box will not budge or open even after using the factory carriage release tool with reasonable hand pressure.
- You see visible cracks, splinters, or surface peeling along the carbon limbs, or an axle appears tilted inside a wheel cam.
- The center serving on the bowstring has separated, exposing the bare inner strands directly beneath the metal claw jaws.
If your crossbow is stuck in a cocked state and the crank mechanism jams, do not attempt to dismantle the bow with regular hand tools. Do not loosen the limb bolts, do not remove the stock screws, and do not try to cut the cocking straps. Keep the bow pointed in a safe direction at all times. Keep everyone away from the front of the rail, place the bow carefully into a padded travel case, and transport it straight to an authorized archery dealer.
Compound crossbow strings and cables hold hundreds of pounds of continuous static pressure even when the bow is resting. Servicing these components safely requires an archery pro shop bow press. This specialized hydraulic or worm-gear press evenly compresses the heavy-load limbs from the tips without twisting the riser. Never attempt to press a crossbow using workshop vises, bar clamps, or tie-down ratchet straps, as these makeshift tools will slip and launch pressurized parts across the room.
Keep A Dedicated Carriage Release Tool In Your Hunting Pack
When you spend long hours in the field or at the range, having the right recovery accessory on hand makes the difference between an easy thirty-second reset and a completely ruined day. A locked trigger carriage is not a rare occurrence; it happens frequently when clearing bows in cold weather or during routine string maintenance. Having a dedicated release tool in your pocket allows you to clear claw jams on the spot without running back to your truck or workshop.
When selecting a carriage release tool for your gear bag, pay attention to these practical design details before buying:
- Precise shape and fit: Verify that the release pin matches the exact port diameter and reach needed for your specific bow model. Different carriage designs require specific pin lengths to contact the internal lever cleanly without slipping off the sear face.
- Solid metal construction: Look for a tool machined from solid steel or hardened aluminum. Cheap plastic keys or soft pot-metal pins can bend or snap off inside the carriage port, leaving you with an obstructed housing that must be fully disassembled by a technician.
- Lanyard holes and visible finish: Dropping a tiny black metal key into tall grass or autumn leaves before sunrise means it is gone for good. Choose a tool that features a machined hole for a paracord loop, or add a bright reflective tag so you can tie it directly to your bino harness, rangefinder pouch, or quiver frame.
- Smooth, deburred edges: The pin and handle should have rounded, clean edges with no rough metal burrs. A smooth finish prevents scratches to your bow rail, protects the anodized coating on the carriage, and ensures the pin slides into the access port without catching on internal springs.
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