How to Set Up an HHA Bow Sight and Install the Right Tape
Bolt the bracket securely to the bow riser and check that the built-in bubble level sits straight. Starting with a square frame lets you dial in a clean 20-yard zero on the blank calibration ruler without chasing stray shots. Once your first mark hits dead center, take a few shots at a longer distance to track arrow drop, which reveals the exact number for your matching distance tape.
The right sticker depends on the weight and speed of your arrow, because heavier hunting shafts drop much quicker downrange. Sights that adjust with a rotating wheel also read slightly differently than versions using a straight sliding arm. Sighting your second distance at forty yards works best in smaller spaces, while stretching out to sixty yards gives tighter precision. Taking each step in order prevents wasted stickers and gets your bow hitting bullseyes right away.
How Do You Mount the Sight to Your Bow?
Mounting an HHA bow sight takes only a few minutes, but taking care sets up your bow for repeatable shooting. Before touching any tools, make sure your bow sits safely in a bow holder with all arrows stored away. A clear, flat table allows you to handle screws and Allen wrenches without bumping your bow limbs or cams.
Follow these steps to bolt the sight bracket to your bow:
- Locate the mounting holes on your riser: Modern compound bows feature threaded holes on the outside of the riser (the central frame of the bow). If you are setting up a bow sight for Mathews bows or other major hunting bows, you will find two or three sets of screw holes above the arrow shelf.
- Pick your bracket position: HHA brackets offer multiple mounting slots. Bolting the sight closer to the riser keeps the bow compact and well-balanced. Placing it farther forward extends your sight radius, which improves aiming precision. Pick the middle position if you are unsure.
- Tighten the mounting bolts: Place the sight bracket against the riser and thread the two mounting screws by hand to avoid stripping the aluminum threads. Use the proper hex wrench to tighten them snugly. Firm tension prevents bow vibration from rattling the bracket loose over time.
- Verify arrow clearance: Look down the arrow line to confirm the sight frame clears your arrow rest and arrow vanes. If you use a bow-mounted quiver, hold the quiver bracket in place to ensure both accessories mount cleanly without blocking the sight dial.
How Do You Level the Sight Bubble?
Before shooting your first arrow, level the sight housing. Axis leveling means squaring the bubble level on your sight to the bow string. If your bubble reads level while your bow tilts sideways, your arrows will drift off target, especially as shooting distance increases.
Use this checklist to align your bubble level:
- Plumb the bow string: Mount your bow in an archery vise or hang it so the string hangs straight down. Place a small line level against the string to verify it is completely vertical.
- Inspect the sight bubble: Look at the bubble level in the bottom of your HHA scope ring. When the bow string is plumb, the bubble must sit dead center between the two black lines.
- Adjust the second axis screws: Most HHA sights feature two adjustment screws near the scope housing that control this leveling angle. Loosen them slightly with an Allen wrench, then rotate the scope housing until the bubble centers.
- Lock the screws tight: Snug down the screws while watching the bubble. Screws can rotate the housing slightly as they tighten, so double-check the bubble once fully tightened.
How Do You Sight in at 20 Yards?
With your sight level and mounted, you can begin zeroing your bow. HHA single-pin sights use a temporary calibration strip to track arrow flight before you apply a permanent yardage tape. Elevation refers to your vertical up-and-down adjustment, while windage refers to your horizontal left-to-right adjustment. You will calibrate both at 20 yards to set your starting mark.
Follow these steps to find your 20-yard zero:
- Apply the white setup tape: Find the white calibration sticker in your sight package. This strip features numbered tick marks from 1 to 75. Peel the backing and stick it smoothly along the curved track of your dial wheel or sliding rail.
- Raise the pin: Turn the adjustment dial so the sight housing rests near the top of its travel. Keeping the pin high prevents your first shots from flying over the target backing.
- Shoot an initial arrow at 10 yards: Step back 10 yards from a large target bale. Aim center and shoot one arrow. Starting close confirms your arrow hits the target safely before moving further back.
- Step back to 20 yards: Shoot a group of three arrows. Adjust your sight by chasing the arrow impact. If your arrows hit low, lower the sight housing. If they hit high, raise the housing. If they hit left, move the housing left.
- Lock in dead center: Loosen the windage lock screw to adjust left-right alignment until arrows split the bullseye vertically. Then turn the dial wheel to adjust elevation until your arrows hit the horizontal center line.
- Write down your 20-yard mark: Look at where the pointer needle rests on the white setup tape. Record that exact number, such as 18 or 24, on a notepad or your phone.
Should You Shoot at 40 or 60 Yards?
To pick the right yardage tape, HHA requires a second shooting distance. This long-range mark measures your arrow drop, which is how quickly your arrow loses altitude from drag and gravity. HHA allows you to shoot your second mark at either 40 yards or 60 yards.
Choosing between these distances depends on your shooting ability and space. Sighting in at 60 yards provides greater precision. Because arrows drop significantly between 20 and 60 yards, the wider spread on the setup tape makes finding the exact tape simple. If you shoot in a shorter backyard, or if your groups spread out wide at 60 yards, the 40-yard method works reliably.
Follow these steps to establish your long-range mark:
- Step back to 40 or 60 yards: Move back to your chosen distance and make sure the range is safe and clear.
- Lower your sight pin: Loosen the dial lock knob. Turn the dial down by roughly 15 to 20 marks on the setup tape. Lowering the pin forces you to aim the bow higher to counter arrow drop.
- Shoot a sighting arrow: Aim at an aiming dot near the top of your target. If the arrow lands low, turn the dial down a few more marks. If it lands high, turn the dial back toward your 20-yard mark.
- Zero the group: Shoot three arrows at the bullseye. Adjust the dial until your group consistently strikes the center. Do not touch your windage screws during this step unless you are dealing with a strong side breeze.
- Record the second number: Check where the pointer needle sits on the white setup tape. Note the exact number, such as 46 for 40 yards or 68 for 60 yards.
How Do You Choose and Install the Tape?
Once you have your two setup numbers, simple subtraction reveals your tape size. The yardage tape is the pre-printed distance sticker on the dial that shows marks for 20 through 60 yards or beyond. Fast bows shooting light arrows have flat trajectories and closely spaced marks, while slower bows require wider gaps between yardage lines.
Follow these steps to select and stick your permanent tape:
- Calculate your tape number: Subtract your 20-yard number from your long-range number. If your 40-yard mark was 43 and your 20-yard mark was 18, subtracting 18 from 43 leaves 25. If you shot at 60 yards and had marks of 70 and 18, the difference is 52.
- Check the HHA selection chart: Open the booklet included with your sight. Find your shooting distance column (20 to 40 yards, or 20 to 60 yards). Locate your calculated difference number in that column, then read across to find your matching tape number, like Tape #28 or Tape #45.
- Select the matching strip: Find the sheet of color-coded yardage tapes in your packaging and peel out the strip displaying your matched tape number.
- Reset your dial to 20 yards: Turn your sight dial so the needle points directly at your original 20-yard mark on the setup tape. Lock the dial knob so the wheel cannot turn while you work.
- Apply the yardage tape: You can peel off the setup tape or apply the new tape directly over it if your dial channel is deep enough. Align the 20-yard mark on the new tape directly under the pointer needle. Smooth the tape firmly onto the wheel so it lays flat without wrinkles.
Why Are Your Long-Range Arrows Drifting?
Once your yardage tape is on the dial, your elevation will stay accurate at every distance. But if your arrows start drifting left or right past 40 yards, you are dealing with an alignment or form error rather than an issue with the tape.
Check these four factors to correct left-right drift:
- Inspect third-axis leveling: While second axis levels your sight on flat ground, third axis keeps the sight level when aiming uphill or downhill. A misaligned third axis causes severe sideways drift when hunting from an elevated treestand. Verify your third axis with a dedicated leveling tool or at an archery pro shop.
- Monitor grip torque: Squeezing the bow grip tightly twists the riser during release. Even slight wrist torque pushes arrows inches offline at long distances. Keep your bow hand relaxed, fingers limp, and review how to use a bow sight with proper hand positioning to maintain consistent arrow flight.
- Examine arrow rest center-shot: If your rest sits slightly out of line with your bow string, your arrow leaves the bow crooked. This drift barely shows at 20 yards but creates wide misses at 50 yards. Paper tuning your bow helps align your rest to true center.
- Center the scope in your peep sight: At full draw, align the outer edge of your peep sight with the circular outer frame of your HHA housing. If you anchor inconsistently, your eye moves off-center, causing left or right misses downrange.
FAQs
What if my bow is too fast for the yardage tapes?
If your bow shoots very fast, your calculated difference number might fall below the lowest number on the HHA chart. In that situation, install the fastest tape included in your booklet, or add weight to your arrows by switching to heavier field points or thicker arrow shafts. Adding weight slows arrow speed slightly, widening your pin gaps so your bow matches the pre-printed scale.
Can I set up an HHA sight without shooting 60 yards?
Yes, you can calibrate your sight using only 20 and 40 yards. HHA includes a dedicated 20-to-40 yard column on their chart for archers without access to a 60-yard range. While 60 yards provides a slightly wider gap for fine measurement, the 40-yard conversion is dependable and delivers hunting accuracy out to long distances.
Why do my 20-yard shots hit low after installing the tape?
If your arrows hit low at 20 yards after applying the tape, the pointer needle or dial moved while you were smoothing the sticker down. Loosen the dial lock, shoot at 20 yards until you hit center, and check where the needle points. If it does not align with the 20-yard line on your tape, peel the sticker, reset the needle to your zero, and stick the tape back down carefully.
Do I need to install a new tape if I change arrows?
Yes, changing your arrow shafts, broadhead weight, or bow draw weight alters your arrow speed and trajectory. Because a different arrow drops at a different rate, you will need to repeat the sighting process. Save your remaining HHA tape strips in your archery gear box so you can calibrate a new tape whenever you alter your setup.

















