How to Wax a Ravin Crossbow String Without Gumming the Trigger

The Short Version

• Wax only the bare fibers: Apply paste bow wax strictly to the fuzzy, exposed strands of your string and cables, stopping at least half an inch before any wrapped section.
• Keep paste wax off the center serving: The center serving (the wrapped protective thread around the string core) latches directly into the Trac-Trigger (the sliding trigger box that holds the drawn string). Thick paste wax will migrate into the trigger housing and gum up the internal catch mechanisms.
• Burnish with bare fingers: Rub the waxed strands briskly between your thumb and forefinger until friction heat melts the wax deep into the strand bundle, then wipe off any sticky surface residue.
• Condition the serving with liquid fluid only: Use a light, liquid string conditioner or polymeric serving fluid on the wrapped center area every 20 to 30 shots rather than standard paste wax.

The Golden Rule: Bare Fibers Versus Wrapped Serving

Modern high-performance crossbows place enormous mechanical strain on their rigging. A typical Ravin crossbow features an energetic cam system that pulls hundreds of pounds of force through a remarkably compact axle setup. To keep those parts moving smoothly, you must understand the two distinct textures running across your bowstring.

First, you have the bare string fibers. These are the smooth bundles of exposed synthetic strands running along the open spans of the main bowstring and the buss cables. These strands dry out when exposed to sunlight, wind, and dry air. When they dry out, individual filaments begin to separate and create a fine fuzz. Paste bowstring wax acts as a protective shield and lubricant for these open fibers, preventing them from rubbing against each other and fraying internally.

Second, you have the serving. The serving is a tight, spiral wrap of thin, highly durable protective thread wound firmly around the main fiber core. You will see serving wrapped around the end loops that hook over the cams, around the crossover sections of the cables, and right across the middle of the main string. This wrapped protective thread absorbs abrasive contact from arrow nocks, cocking hooks, and cam grooves so the load-bearing fibers beneath stay safe.

The golden rule for Ravin bows is simple. Heavy paste wax belongs on the bare fibers, and it must never touch the wrapped center serving. Standard crossbow designs allow you to coat the whole string because their triggers use open, overhead latches. Ravin uses an enclosed Trac-Trigger mechanism that physically grips the center serving. Putting sticky paste wax on that serving transfers paste directly into the trigger box, where it collects grit and ruins the trigger release.

Why Rail Lube Does Not Belong on a Ravin Crossbow

Many shooters transition to a Ravin from conventional crossbow platforms, such as a traditional recurve or a standard compound hunting setup. On those traditional designs, the arrow shaft sits flat inside an aluminum flight track, and the bowstring drags heavily across the rail as it snaps forward. Those bows require regular applications of rail lube to prevent friction burns on the serving.

Ravin crossbows work on a completely different principle called the Frictionless Flight System. The arrow does not rest on a rail. Instead, the front of the bolt rests on a dual-roller arrow rest, while the rear of the bolt snaps directly onto the string. The string floats completely in free air between the cams and never touches the barrel during the shot.

Because the string never drags along an arrow rail, you never need to coat the barrel with rail lube. Applying liquid lube or wax to the barrel frame does nothing to help arrow flight. In fact, wet lubricants on the barrel simply attract trail dust, dried leaves, and pine needles. Keep the metal frame clean and dry, focusing your maintenance strictly on the string fibers themselves.

Step-by-Step Guide to Waxing Your Ravin Crossbow String

Waxing your string correctly takes less than five minutes, but doing it with care prevents dangerous mistakes. Work in a well-lit space with the crossbow uncocked and clear of any loaded arrows.

1. Clean your hands and examine the string: Wash your hands thoroughly with soap and warm water before touching the bowstring. Natural skin oils and grit on your fingers will transfer into the string fibers if you skip this step. Look closely along the bare fibers and cables to confirm there are no severed strands or broken threads.
2. Apply wax to the bare fibers: Extend a small amount of bowstring wax from the tube, roughly a quarter of an inch. Lightly dab and rub the wax stick directly along the bare, exposed sections of the string and cables. You only need a thin, visible film. Stop applying wax roughly half an inch before you reach any wrapped serving thread.
3. Burnish the wax into the strands: To burnish means to rub quickly with your bare fingers to melt wax into the fibers. Pinch the waxed string lightly between your thumb and index finger. Slide your fingers back and forth rapidly along the open fiber sections. The friction will quickly warm your skin. That mild warmth liquefies the paste wax, drawing it deep into the center of the bundle where it conditions every strand.
4. Avoid using leather scraps or friction cords: Traditional archers often use a scrap of leather or a loop of bowstring material to burnish wax. Do not do this on a Ravin crossbow. High-friction materials generate extreme heat very quickly, which can melt or weaken modern synthetic string fibers. Your bare fingers provide natural heat regulation. If the string gets uncomfortably hot against your bare skin, you know it is getting too hot for the fibers.
5. Wipe away all excess surface wax: Once the wax melts into the core, grab a clean, lint-free cloth or paper towel. Fold it over the string and wipe firmly down the length of the bare fibers. You want the wax inside the bundle, not sitting on the outside. Any heavy, gummy wax left on the exterior serves as a trap for outdoor dirt, sand, and moisture.

Caring for the Center Serving and Sliding Trigger Box

Because you cannot use paste wax on the center serving, you must care for that section using an entirely different method. The center serving takes the hardest beating on the entire bow. It receives the direct blow from the arrow nock and holds hundreds of pounds of pull weight (the mechanical effort holding the drawn string) while the bow sits cocked.

To protect the center serving from unraveling or drying out, use an approved liquid serving fluid or polymeric string conditioner. These fluids have the consistency of thin oil and soak directly into the wrapped threads without leaving a sticky paste behind. Place one or two tiny drops of liquid fluid onto the center serving. Rub it gently around the wrap with a clean fingertip, then let it soak in for three minutes before blotting away any wet residue with a clean cloth.

Treat the buss cables near the cam contact points with the same liquid fluid where wrapped servings roll over tight radiuses. This keeps the protective wraps flexible and prevents the tight bends from separating or popping out of alignment during the shot cycle.

If you accidentally swipe paste wax onto the center serving or drop wax near the Trac-Trigger latch, do not draw the bow. Wet wax inside the trigger housing causes the safety catches to stick, which can lead to accidental misfires or a dangerous dry fire (firing the bow without an arrow nocked, which absorbs zero energy and can shatter limbs). Dip a clean cotton swab in standard isopropyl alcohol and gently wipe the wax off the serving and away from the metal trigger claws. Let the alcohol evaporate completely before operating the cocking mechanism.

Bowstring Care Schedule for Hunting and Practice

Maintaining high arrow speeds and safe shooting depends entirely on a consistent maintenance routine. How often you condition your bow depends on how often you pull the trigger and the environmental conditions you face in the field.

• Target practice frequency: Apply wax to the bare fibers and liquid conditioner to the center serving every 20 to 30 shots. If you shoot long practice sessions during the summer, inspect the string every couple of rounds to make sure fuzz is not building up.
• Rain and wet hunting conditions: Heavy rain and falling snow strip protective wax out of synthetic strands quickly. If you hunt in wet weather, inspect the string immediately after bringing the bow indoors. Allow the bow to air dry completely at room temperature, then apply a fresh coat of wax and liquid serving fluid before your next hunt.
• Dusty hunting blinds: Fine dust inside ground blinds or dry dirt in windy fields attaches quickly to string fibers. Wipe down the bowstrings with a clean, dry cloth after hunting in dirty environments, and re-wax if the strands feel dry or chalky to the touch.
• Pre-season preparation: Always apply a fresh coat of wax to the bare strands and fluid to the servings at the start of hunting season. Do this before shooting your first broadhead confirmation arrows, especially if the crossbow has rested in a storage case for several months.

Shooters who run narrow, high-energy setups like a compact hunting crossbow know that tight axle dimensions amplify string wear. Keeping a small notebook or a phone log of your approximate shot count makes it easy to remember your maintenance intervals.

Signs Your Ravin Crossbow String Needs Replacement

Routine waxing prolongs string life, but no crossbow string lasts forever. Crossbow strings endure massive shock every time an arrow launches. Knowing when a string has reached the end of its safe working life protects you from catastrophic equipment failure.

• Serving separation: Look closely at the center serving where the trigger latch catches and where the arrow nock sits. If the wrapped threads begin to separate, leaving gaps where you can see the bare inner strands peeking through, stop shooting immediately. Exposed inner strands will sever quickly under nock pressure.
• Severed or broken strands: Light, fine fuzz that smooths down with a dab of wax is normal wear. However, if you see individual strands snapped in half and sticking out like tiny whiskers, the structural core of the string is compromised.
• Dry, brittle fibers that refuse wax: If the bare fibers feel stiff, hard, or discolored, and wax no longer absorbs during finger burnishing, the synthetic materials have broken down from age or sun exposure.
• Cam timing shift: When strings stretch unevenly, the bow cams rotate out of synchronization. If your arrows begin hitting lower than usual or your cocking effort feels uneven, the string and cables have likely stretched beyond their service limit.

Never attempt to remove, untwist, or change strings on a modern compound crossbow using workshop clamps, tie-down straps, or homemade tools. The limbs store incredible pressure that can shatter parts and cause severe injury. Always bring your bow to an archery pro shop that uses a specialized archery pro shop bow press designed for high-stress, narrow-limb bows. Most manufacturers suggest replacing both the string and the cables every two years or every 200 to 400 shots, whichever milestone you hit first.

FAQs

What happens if bow wax gets inside the Ravin Trac-Trigger latch?

Paste wax inside the Trac-Trigger housing attracts dirt and creates a thick, sticky sludge on the internal catches. That buildup can prevent the trigger latches from closing securely around the string, causing the bow to slip out of full draw or fail to fire properly. If wax gets inside the box, clean the catch surfaces immediately using a cotton swab dipped in isopropyl alcohol.

Can I use standard beeswax on my Ravin bowstring?

Pure, unrefined beeswax is too stiff and tacky for modern high-performance crossbow strings, and it does not penetrate dense synthetic fibers easily. Use a formulated synthetic bowstring wax or a silicone-enhanced paste made specifically for archery gear. These products melt at lower friction temperatures, allowing the wax to absorb deeply into the inner strands during bare-finger burnishing.

Do I ever need to wax the cables on a Ravin crossbow?

Yes, the buss cables carry the same high tension as the main string and require regular waxing. Apply paste wax to the bare, exposed fibers of the cables every 20 to 30 shots, burnishing the wax in with your fingers just as you do on the main string. Keep paste wax off any wrapped cable servings, treating those sections with liquid serving fluid instead.

How can I tell the difference between normal string fuzz and dangerous damage?

Normal string fuzz consists of microscopic surface fibers lifting up from the bundle, creating a light, peach-fuzz texture that completely disappears once you rub wax into the strands. Dangerous damage involves distinct, individual threads that have completely severed and stick out stiffly from the bundle. If you feel a notch, flat spot, or cut strand under your fingers, the string must be replaced before shooting again.