Where Should You Mount Your Crossbow Quiver for Balance?

Standard Bottom Mounting Under the Barrel

Most crossbows come from the factory with mounting holes drilled directly into the underside of the stock or barrel. When you attach the quiver bracket beneath the arrow track (the flat grooved rail where your arrow rests before firing), your arrows sit tucked under the front half of the bow. The protective cup over arrow points (the hood) sits forward near the limbs, keeping sharp hunting blades covered and pointing safely away from your hands and foregrip.

This factory spot exists for a straightforward reason: it anchors weight directly beneath the center spine of the bow. Having arrows underneath helps stop the bow from tilting side to side when you shoulder it. Because the quiver bracket bolts onto the underside riser block, it stays clear of the string, cables, and your top aiming optic. It also keeps your broadheads shielded by the metal foot stirrup at the front tip of the bow.

Under-barrel mounting is not perfect for every hunting scenario. Crossbows already carry most of their weight in the front limbs, wheels, and riser. Hanging three or four heavy hunting arrows under the front barrel adds noticeable nose weight. If you spend hours walking timber or aiming without a tree-stand rail, that extra front-heavy pull forces your wrist and shoulder muscles to work much harder. It also hangs low toward the dirt, which can turn your arrow fletchings into leaf rakes if you crawl or kneel.

Parallel Versus Sticking Out Sideways: Choosing Your Quiver Angle

Once you look at factory bottom brackets, you will notice they hold arrows in one of two directions. They either run parallel (running straight alongside the frame) or perpendicular (sticking out sideways across the belly of the bow). The angle you choose changes how your bow moves through the woods.

Mounting your quiver sticking out sideways positions the arrows crosswise underneath the limbs. Older crossbow designs used this layout to keep arrows well away from the stock and trigger safety. But a sideways quiver turns your hunting rig into a wide horizontal bar. If you walk through thick briars, brushy logging roads, or pine thickets, those sideways shafts catch on branches like boat oars. A single branch catching an arrow vane can tear plastic fletchings or pop a shaft out of the rubber gripper, leaving you short on ammo before you ever reach your stand.

A parallel mount points the arrow tips forward toward the stirrup and lines the arrow shafts straight alongside the main frame. This creates a much slimmer carrying profile that mirrors the natural lines of your bow. When you slip through tight cover, the limbs and frame part the branches before they can snag your arrows. It also prevents the wind from catching the broadside of your quiver on gusty days. For hunters moving through thick brush with a crossbow for stands and tight blinds, keeping arrows tucked parallel against the frame is the quietest and most snag-free way to walk.

Top-Mount Brackets: Putting Your Quiver Over the Scope

If you hunt out of ground blinds or shoot from bench rests, under-barrel quivers can get in your way. When you rest the bottom of the bow on a blind window sill, a shooting bag, or a monopod rest, a low-hanging quiver knocks against the support. This forces you to lean the bow awkwardly, which can cant your scope and throw your shot wide.

An aftermarket top-mount bracket solves this problem by moving the quiver to the top of the crossbow, hovering just above the scope. The bracket attaches to the upper accessory rail and bridges upward, holding the arrow hood and shafts over your optic tube. This leaves the entire belly of the bow flat, clean, and open. You can lay the forearm grip directly on a sandbag or window ledge without crushing arrow vanes or scratching your quiver hood.

Top mounting also changes the balance of your bow in a helpful way. By shifting arrow weight backward and upward, it takes leverage off the front nose and brings the center of mass closer to your shoulder. The trade-off is overhead clearance. A top-mounted quiver makes your bow taller, which can cause arrows to bump into the roof fabric of low hunting blinds. You must also check that the bracket holds the arrows high enough that broadhead hoods do not cut into your field of view through the scope.

Step-by-Step Installation and Safety Clearance Checks

Installing your quiver bracket takes simple hand tools, but you must confirm that the hardware never interferes with cocking ropes, arrow paths, or fingers. Follow these checks in order before heading out to shoot.

1. Unload the bow and confirm the string is resting uncocked. Never install accessories on a cocked crossbow, because bumping the trigger mechanism can release the bowstring instantly and cause severe injury or a dry fire that cracks the limbs.
2. Clean the pre-tapped mounting holes on the frame or rail. Wipe away factory packing oil, grit, or dust from the mounting threads with a dry cotton rag, because dirty threads keep mounting bolts from seating tight and cause loose brackets down the road.
3. Fasten the base mounting plate using the factory hex bolts. Snug the screws down securely using a properly sized Allen wrench, alternating between bolts as you tighten, because uneven torque can twist the metal bracket and make sliding the quiver on and off difficult.
4. Verify clear space for your cocking rope handles or crank sled. Hook your cocking rope onto the bowstring and pull the handles up the flight groove to mimic drawing the bow, because a bracket mounted too close to the rail can snag cocking ropes and cause an uneven, dangerous draw.
5. Inspect boot clearance inside the foot stirrup. Slide your hunting boot completely into the front foot stirrup while holding the bow upright, because broadhead hoods positioned too far forward can hit your boot toe and prevent you from pinning the bow firmly to the ground while cocking.
6. Attach the quiver into the bracket and lock the quick-release lever. Push the quiver base firmly into the mounting slot and clamp the lever down until it clicks, because loose latches let arrows wobble, vibrate, and buzz loudly during a shot.
7. Sight down the arrow track to verify flight clearance. Look straight down the flight groove where your shooting arrow sits to confirm no part of the quiver bracket, hood, or spare arrows touches the flight deck, because any contact with the launched arrow will push it off course and damage your equipment.

Shooting with Arrows Attached Versus Taking the Quiver Off

Once your mount is locked down, you must decide whether to keep your arrows on the bow while shooting or remove the quiver at your hunting spot. Both methods have distinct benefits depending on how you spend your day in the woods.

Leaving the quiver attached works best for spot-and-stalk hunting, still-hunting through open timber, or walking field edges. When you stay on your feet, having three or four extra arrows attached directly to the bow means you are always ready for a fast follow-up shot. You do not have to dig into a backpack or reach behind your hip to grab another arrow. But shooting with a loaded quiver adds extra weight to the bow. It also creates a small amount of side drag in crosswinds and can add a dull vibration buzz when the string releases.

Detaching the quiver is the standard choice for hunters who sit in elevated tree stands or ground blinds. Modern setups use a quick-release lever (a simple hand latch that releases the quiver with one finger push). Once you climb into your stand and clip your safety tether, pop the lever, slide the quiver off, and hang it on a gear hook screwed into the tree trunk. Your crossbow immediately sheds extra weight, balances better in your hands, and maneuvers quietly in tight spaces. When choosing among modern hunting crossbow setups, picking a model with an easy-to-reach quick-release lever gives you the freedom to carry arrows safely during the walk in and shoot a bare, lightweight bow once you settle down.

• Keep the quiver attached if: You are actively walking, tracking game, hunting open terrain, or need quick access to a second arrow without reaching into a pack.
• Detach the quiver if: You are resting your bow on a blind rail, sitting in a tree stand with gear hooks, or trying to minimize bow weight to steady your aim.

What to Look for in Quiver Mounting Brackets and Upgrades

If your factory quiver placement crowds your hands or bumps your shooting rest, an upgraded bracket adapter can solve the clearance issue without requiring a brand-new bow. These hardware kits let you change where and how your quiver sits along the stock.

When shopping for an adapter bracket, check how it connects to your crossbow frame. Look for models made from machined aluminum rather than soft plastic, because aluminum holds firm against heavy bow vibration and temperature swings. Verify that the bracket includes a dependable quick-release lever that you can operate with heavy winter hunting gloves on. The locking latch should clamp down tightly without requiring extra hand tools in the field.

Check the spacing of the bracket legs as well. Good mounting brackets provide enough clearance so your broadhead hood stays at least an inch clear of your stirrup, cocking aids, and fingers. Look for brackets that feature built-in rubber grommets or soft spacers. These rubber parts absorb the sharp snap of the bowstring, preventing your mounting screws from vibrating loose after repeated target practice.

1

Bohning Crossbow Quiver Top Mount 801012

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• ARS Mark

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  9.0
• Brand
  Bohning

Key specs2

Mounting Location

Top mount above barrel

Fit and Clearance

• Confirm your crossbow scope sits high enough to clear the quiver
• Check that your quiver locking bracket matches the Bohning hole pattern
• Ensure overhead arrow placement does not obstruct your line of sight

Pros & cons43

Pros

• Shifts the quiver above the crossbow frame to keep arrows off ground rests and shooting rails
• Leaves the underside of the barrel clear for cocking ropes, crank devices, and hand placement
• Creates a narrower profile than side-mounted brackets that stick out and catch on brush
• Part number 801012 provides a dedicated overhead solution from Bohning for crossbow setups

Cons

• Scope clearance dimensions and rail mounting interface are not listed and require manual verification
• Overhead quiver positioning shifts accessory weight higher above the center of gravity
• Quiver brand compatibility and included hardware details are not specified in the listing

Last update on 2026-10-18 / Affiliate links / Images, Product Titles, and Product Highlights from Amazon Product Advertising API

FAQs

Does shooting with a quiver full of arrows change your point of impact?

Yes, shooting with a quiver attached can shift your arrows slightly to the side. The weight of extra arrows hanging off one side of the stock pulls on your grip and can cause minor bow tilt as you squeeze the trigger. If you plan to hunt with your quiver mounted, sight in your scope with the loaded quiver attached so your aiming pins match your field setup.

Can a top-mounted quiver block your view through the crossbow scope?

A properly installed top bracket holds arrows high enough to clear your sight picture, but a low bracket can cause broadhead hoods to dip into the top of your scope view. Always shoulder the bow on low magnification after installing a top mount to confirm the hood does not blur your sight picture. If the hood blocks your crosshairs, slide the bracket farther forward along the optic rail.

Which way should broadheads face when mounting a crossbow quiver?

Broadheads should always point toward the front limbs and foot stirrup inside the protective hood cup. This keeps sharp mechanical or fixed blades safely enclosed so they cannot snag your clothing or cut your fingers while carrying the bow. It also keeps fragile arrow fletchings pointing backward along the stock where they stay protected from ground brush.

How do you stop a quiver bracket from vibrating loose after shooting?

Crossbows generate heavy vibration on every shot, which easily loosens basic mounting bolts over time. Apply a single drop of medium-strength blue thread-locking compound to the clean threads of your mounting screws before tightening them down. Avoid permanent red thread-locker, which requires high heat to remove and can damage aluminum bow frames.